Thursday, April 3, 2008

To Nostalgic Revelries

Last night I hung out with a friend of mine, Jon, that I haven't seen much of in years. I've known him since I was born. He was my neighbor untill I was 8 years, as well as a member of my patrol in boy scouts. Since the passing of his older brother, whom was a great insperation to my art and good counsel, we've reconnected and I expect we'll rekindle our great friendship.

We wen't out to Wick's pizza, a local pizza company known for their extremely filling pies. On wednesday night they have an excellent special, $10 all you can eat and drink(yes beer!) from 7 to midnight! Of course the place gets packed full of people and the line for beer or pizza can be kind of long but for the price, there is little to complain about.

After we exausted our desire for beer and pizza we headed back to my place. I had an urge to play some Fight Night, and he was up to the challenge. Having been refused competion by all of my friends recently, I found myself getting crushed at my own game! This reminds me of the old days on Ivanhoe ct. where we grew up. Jon had more nintendo games than I did and always seemed to have the advantage when we matched our talents. I'm sure there willbe a rematch soon and look forward to taking back my title!

As far as climbing goes, I'm still feeling fatigued from Tuesday, which is a feeling I'm getting used too. I enjoy the implications of this state, as it always results in muscle growth and increased appetite(Eating makes Rob happy). I expect to go climbing tomorrow afternoon after I get out of work(ussually 2 hours early on fridays). I've now decided to set goals for my climbing and maintain the list as I complete them on this blog.

Goals

-Surrender 9, 5.9+

This route pumped me out at the crux as I wasn't prepared. Next time will be a clean send for sure.

-Half Brain, 5.9+

this route has 2 crux's the first a high reach to match on a slopey blob. the second a high reach from a side crimp and sloped pinch. the latter shrugged me off last I was on this route.

-Insatiable, 5.9+

I love the boulder problem at the start(they did make it a bit too easy switching out a slopey pinch for a really nice edge to match on) I don't predict much difficulty to send.

-Pearl, 5.10a

fun start, lots of footwork.

-Crinch, 5.10a/b

this route is loaded with crimps and 2 finger pinches. I'm pretty strong in that department. this will come down to developing beta for the crux which I'm near completion.

-Big Momma, 5.10a

Slopey huge holds all the way up the Arete. heal hooks and slaps make the difference. this started as a boulder problem(V2) and ended up having a route added to it.

-Moonshine, 5.10b

real strong boulder problem about 10 feet up, which I've completed twice off rope. I'm sure theres another crux up top.

-Mellow Yellow, 5.10b

Starts overhung, comes around to vertical face. here there is a huge boulder problem with a horizontal lunge that commits you to aswing across the gym if you don't stick the slope with your right hand. above this, it levels off to a 5.9

-Purple Cave 1, V1

this problem has been a thorn in my side for months. Theres on move that requires a lot of core and left arm to combat a nasty barn-door. I've recently made this move and all that remains are 3 easy moves after it.

-Rob's Pink Problem, V2

The owner of the gym, also named Rob, set this problem a few months ago. I've sent it about 5 times but haven't been able to repeat it in over 2 months! WTF!

-Orange Cave 2, V2/3

I'm missing some beta for the last 2-3 moves but I'll knock this out soon. Just need to stick a nasty side slope with my left hand and man up.

-Blue Cave Route, 5.10c

this is accually a lead climb route up to the top of the cave. I've been enjoying working the lower 15 ft. I'm 2 moves from what I would consider the boulder top out.

-Campus Hangrails up and down.

6x 1.5" hang rails slightly overhung. I want to be able to campus up and down these. currently I can go up and down 2 lol.

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