A Late Monday

I opted out of work yesterday due to a crummy tummy so today feels like a late monday. The 3 people at work that I go to lunch with regularly either quit or got fired in the last few days, so now I must find new people to indulge my pallet with.

I had a good night at the gym on Sunday. I didn't have anyone to catch me, none the less I made progress on a couple V1-V2 boulder problems, one in particular has been a thorn in my side for over a month, which I'm now 1 move away from topping out. I've had all the beta I need for this particular problem since it wen't up but I believe I've finally developed the power in my core and left arm to pull through the crux. More progress was made on a 5.10b cave route that went up recently and I'll have finished what I can boulder safely tonight.

I'm starting to find myself experienced enough to develop my own boulder problems at the gym. This seems to allow me to focus on specific techniques and muscle groups that i need to get used to using. Right now I'm focusing on balance, mantles, and reaches that require a lot of core. Next, I'd like to add the heel hook to my list of strong techniques.

I've got 3 boulder problems I plan to send tonight, two V1's and a V3. Assuming Brad comes up, I'll be looking to top out a balancy 5.10a/b that's loaded with crimps and 2 finger pinches. This route pumped me out last time i got on it matching on this terrible crimp with a 3 finger and 2 finger ledge. I've since bouldered past it with no issues. Footwork FTW!

The other route I've go my eye on is a 5.10b, thats loaded with boulder problems. It starts overhung and you campus out onto the vertical face around the corner where you encounter the crux; a huge horizontal lunge to a sloped ledge with your right hand. This lunge is entirely committing and requires a massive amount of core strength to stick. I've bouldered through the campus, but the crux is a bit too high for comfort with the swing and commitment required, so I expect I'll bounce off the lunge for a while. As far as I can tell it grades back to a 5.9+ after the crux.

My buddy Mike has come a long way in the month he's been climbing. He just sent a 5.9+ thats been a thorn in his side for weeks. I like seeing my friends progress. It won't be long until he starts pushing through V0-1 boulder problems. Maybe I'll be able to convince him to buy his own damned shoes so we can go climb some real rock! The lady that works at the gym keeps giving him shit about spending 5 bucks a day to rent shoes. To this I remind him he's spent nearly $60 renting vs the $80 a decent pair of shoes can run you.

My truck is now recieving the attention she deserves so I expect her to be back on the street this weekend(I hope!). If thats the case I hope to have some pictures from the gorge or some boulders on here early next week.