Monday, April 14, 2008

Strong Days

Friday was a great day at the gym! I met a few new people who climb there regularly, including one sexy climbing chick, oh yeah! I knocked out the Purple Cave V1 on my goal sheet, as well as knocked out the bouldering parts of 3 5.10b routes, which I will be adding to my goal sheet to top out. I climbed 3 hours strait with few breaks.



Two new boulder problems have been added to the cave. one I would suggest a V2 rating and the other a V3. The first of which I have worked out all the beta and have nearly sent it, I was too pumped after working out the beta to complete it. A friend of mine, came in later and after I explained it to him, he was able to send on his 3rd try. Heres what the problem looks like.


On the start you're leaning way back to your left, both hands on the sharktooth. Your right foot will be fully extended to a low foot disk on the right side, left foot flagged along side it.


1st move, pull your chest up to sharktooth, and reach out with right hand to edgy knob while smearing under sharktooth with left foot. Balance over onto right hand and foot.


2nd move, mantle slightly off left hand and match left foot to sharktooth.


3rd move, Drop left knee, balance on right to slowly move left hand up to big slopey disc. match right hand and reposition right foot to second right foot.


4th move, pull up move left hand to edge.


Finish, step right foot up and cross over with right.

I love this problem! It has a real strong start and matching on the disc can prove quite difficult if you're not controled.

Sunday was not very successful. I was still worn out from such a strong session on friday. I got on some routes but wasn't able to top anything. I did get my brother to come out and climb. He did very well for his first time back in many years. Unlike most of my friends, he didn't pump out on his first send. He managed to top out 4 routes! Evidently the little time he spends on his workouts is well spent. Hopefully I can get him to come up weekly. I miss hanging with my brother a lot. We hung out every day just about for most of our lives and just recently we've hardly seen each other.

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